More than 1000 years before John Updike visited the Rila Monastery, a hermit, who tried to embalm himself, founded the most astonishing holy sanctuary in Bulgaria. Behind its magically frescoed walls it houses contradictory relics which Updike expertly noticed
The monastery is situated in a narrow valley between Rila's forested ridges along the Rilska River. A thousand yards eastwards there is a fine view to Mount Malyovitsa, which is very popular with climbers, and further east are the paths to the Ribni Ezera, (or Fish Lakes). Trekking in this area is a favorite activity for both Bulgarian and foreign mountaineers and they sometimes use the monastery as a starting base .
The nearest destination is St. Ivan Rilski's Tomb, which is about an hour's walk uphill. 500ft or 150 m. above the monastery is James Boucier's grave, a British who was correspondent for The Times in the 19th Century and a supporter of Bulgarian Liberation cause.
''For five centuries the Turks had ruled Bulgaria, and the Christian churces, however richly adorned within, had humble exteriors... quotes the American writer Henry Bech.
''Every inch of wall was covered with eighteenth - century frescoes. Those in the narthex depicted a Hell where the devils wielded scimitars.''
''The Rila Monasery,'' Updike continues, ''is a citadel of Bulgarian national feeling during the years of Turkish Yoke.''
The key word during this visit to the Rila Monastery, and, metaphorically, in Bulgaria as Bech observes is ''suffering.''
To a greater extent than all other religious centres, this monastery stands as a symbol of the centuries - long suffering, either of one's free will or imposed by outside factors, which the Orthodox Church claims will finally bring redemption.
The idea dates back quite some time before Updike, to the 9th Century, when a hermit, mystic, and godly man, swallowed a large amount of herbs and potions in order to embalm himself while he was still alive. Very impressed, his followers started to believe that his body possessed healing powers. After his death, more and more pilgrims started to flock to the monastery he had founded and wanted to touch his curative bones. One of them was Tsar Peter (927-970), who wanted to meet the secluded old man himself, but Ivan refused. He turned down the gold which Peter had brought as well.
After Ivan Rilski's death, the then Bulgarian sovereigns decided that if they appropriated his relics, their supremacy would become better-established. For this reson in the middle of 900s, Tsar Peter moved them to Sredets, present - day Sofia. King Bella III of Hungary took them away from his heirs in 1183 and entrusted them to the cathedral in Esztergom. A legend tells that the local archbishop expressed doubts that the bones belonged to a saint and as a result was instantly struck blind. Indulgence from above came, and he regained his sight only after he repented and admitted his mistake in public.
The saint's remains were taken back to Sredets in 1187 with the help of Byzantine emperor, but they returned to Rila Monastery as late as 1469.
St. Ivan Rilski's right hand was taken to Russia by monks who went there to seek sponsorship from the Russian Empire. The left one was preserved .
Under Communism, the Rila Monastery gradually lost its religious significance and turned into a tourist site. For those unfamiliar with the Eastern Orthodox Church, it is exotic. But for devotees, it is one of the most important landmarks of Orthodoxy which have survived over the centuries. For everyone, however, it is a beauty. The church which was obviously decorated under Byzantine influence, houses some invaluable artifacts of Bulgarian spiritual culture. It is adorned with icons painted by Zografskis, the most famous Bulgarian family of icon - painters, superb woodcarvings by masters from Debar and Samokov, and boasts a number of unique relics.
Although situated on 28,870 sq ft, or 8,800 sq m, at present its nearly 300 cells are inhabited by only six monks, who cover a lot of mileage while doing everyday chores. Even one of them acts as hotel receptionist for those who would like to make a donation in exchange of monastery accomodation . |
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